Jul 31, 20243 min read

Greek Peplos to Modern Peplum

Vintage Peplum Dress with Moray Luke bag

We had to throw a fashion article in this issue and the Olympics is one of Greece’s most famous cultural exports. With our love of Peplum movies (which we did on our YouTube Channel you can check out here), we thought it was best to do an article on Peplum, Peplos and the high fashion; featuring underrated designers such as Madame Gres and artists such as Richard Malone.

For a lot of us, when we think of Peplum we think of 2010s fashion. Oh the nostalgia for that time. The 2011 Royal Wedding, the UK hosting the 2012 Olympics and a pre Brexit Britain. Good times. What were people wearing? Business casual characterised by peep shoe heels, blazers and dresses and what I miss the most, peplum, was my favourite.

However like most things I covet it had ancient origins. Now then, contemporary designers have very inventive interpretations of ancient dress, this is just one.

Peplum which comes from peplos, πέπλος, meaning veil, and was an upper garment worn by ancient Greek women over a tunic. Made of thin fabric, the peplum was longer than the chiton and featured a large number of folds. A great example is this Caryatid seen at one of my favourite places, the British museum, notice the blousing over her belt (zone/zoster).

Romans and Celts also wore this too. Romans, renowned from borrowing from the Greeks, Roman women continued to wear the peplos until the 2nd century BC when it was gradually replaced by the fashionable palla.

Photo Credit; The British Museum, Townley's Caryatid

The Celts also borrowed the silhouette, living in a cold climate, the Celts fashioned their peplos exclusively from coarse and warm wool. Although there is no identified Celtic term for this particular type of garment, a dress discovered in the Danish Huldremose, preserved in a peat bog, closely aligns with the construction of the Greek peplos.

So many designers have embraced Greek dress, and turned greek peplos to modern peplum such as McQueen, Halston, Diane von Furstunburg. In my opinion, the most underrated designer who played on peplos and created the best result? Madame Gres, one of the world's most underrated designers. Germaine Emile Krebs was a trained sculptor and it shows in her silhouettes. Gres' collections came at a time wherein the 1930s, there was a notable revival of interest in ancient Greek aesthetics and there was a call to turn a lady into a Greek goddess. Gres, who counted Marlene Dietrich, Jackie O and Greta Garbo as clients, showed a pleated silk jersey gowns that was the finale for the end of her show. Gres enjoyed rich success over the course of her career and made a profitable business unlike many fashion designers. She sold the business in the 1980s to Yagi Tsucho, in which Lloyd Klein was hired to be head of the house.

Photo Credit; Vogue Archive, Madam Model Wearing a Madame Gres Alix Dress

It’s interesting to note that the last Madame Gres store closed in 2012 meaning the clothing element of the Gres fashion house lasted an astonishing 70 years, a massive feat in fashion. Even now, the house of Gres survives via a perfume line.

I think Gres has the most beautiful interpretation of Greek dress in fashion. In regards to future creatives who are embracing some form of pleated silhouette and doing it successfully, I would say Central St Martins graduate Richard Malone’s work is very beautiful and also sustainable. His aesthetic includes a deep appreciation for craftsmanship, evident in his meticulous draping and pleating techniques.